One Good Friday In Old Makati

I know, I know. Holy Week is over and done with and the city is back to its chaotic self. Sometimes, if only because nearly the entire Manila comes to a near grinding halt (READ: quiet), I wish that everyday is a Good Friday. When you are exposed to the speed and noise of urban life day in and day out, you will understand what I mean.

P. Burgos St., Brgy Poblacion. To the right are the constructed kubols.

I was in my place of residence during the entire Holy Week. I live in Barangay Poblacion, which is said to be the original Makati dating back to the Spanish times - the so-called Old Makati. For many years, people here still observe Lenten rites, a rather remarkable feat considering that Makati City has always been regarded as the seat of urbanity in the country.

In the Poblacion area, temporary shelters for the Stations of the Cross (called kubols) are constructed as early as Palm Sunday. These become centers of the Pasyon, which is the narration of the life and passion of Jesus Christ, delivered in a sing-song manner by residents designated or have volunteered to do it. The reading of the Pasyon in the area starts on Maundy Thursday, though outside Manila, it could start as early as Monday after Palm Sunday.

Kubol at Simba Likod

Kubol at Ilaya. Reading of The Pasyon was ongoing duing the time this photo was taken.

Good Friday marks the crucifixion and death of the Christ in the Christian World. Church altars are covered with purple cloth during this time. Below is a photo of the altar of the Saint Peter and Paul Parish Church located in Barangay Poblacion.

Come night time of Good Friday, a parade of floats representing the Stations of The Cross commences. This is a sight to behold, for the residents put their heart and soul in the construction of the floats and the arrangement of the statues. Roads are closed to onpassing vehicles during the duration of the parade.


The parade is mostly accompanied by devotees, most of them barefoot. Some prominent Makati folks also join in the parade, most notable of which is the Makati mayor, whom I always see walking with the crowd for the past five years of my abode in Makati.

I remember a long-time resident telling us once, beaming: We usually have 30 or so statues on parade for this occasion. The pride in the statement stems from something deeper though. It seems that for him, it is not just about elaborate and expensive preparations and such. The pride is all about the preservation and love of tradition. It is one infectious, "good" pride, so to speak.

Some things we would give for modernization, but there are some traditions that are worth keeping. The observance of the Holy Week in Old Makati is probably one of the things I would not hesitate to show to any non-Makati resident.

Linggo Ng Palaspas (Palm Sunday)

Linggo ng Palaspas - Palm Sunday - is celebrated in the predominantly Catholic Philippines to usher in the Holy Week. Roughly 90% of the Philippines is Catholic, thus it is of small wonder, of course, that the Filipinos prepare for the culmination of the season of lent with remarkable zeal.

It has been said that local traditional rites such as the observance of Palm Sunday (Linggo ng Palaspas), the reading of the Passion Of The Christ (Pabasa), and the visitation of churches (Visita Iglesia) are dying, specifically in the urban areas. Maybe not yet, for now. I live in Barangay Poblacion, one of the oldest parts of the highly urbanized Makati area, and the celebration of Holy Week here in my place is taken rather seriously.

Take the Linggo ng Palaspas, for instance. I attended the 6am mass at the St. Peter and Paul Parish Church (walking distance from my flat), and the devotees were overflowing, all of them holding on to their fabricated palms. After the end of the mass, the blessing of the palms was performed at the patio in front of the church. A schedule of activities is plastered just in front of the parish church, and trust me, the residents observe this schedule like they have done so for many years.


A palaspas or palm is used to signify The Christ's entry into Jerusalem. A devotee can buy a palaspas for PHP20 here in Poblacion (USD0.44 or EUR0.33), only on Palm Sunday of course.

To be in the Philippines during the Holy Week is to be treated to an excursion of the senses and the spirit if you go past the idea of frolicking in the beach. One need not go out of the greater Manila area to experience this.

I am not a devout Catholic, but for many years I have stayed put in Manila during the Holy Week when almost everyone else goes outside to be in the beach or the mountains. I find the quietude in Manila during the Holy Week sufficient enough for reflection. Besides, the roads are so peaceful, and if I want to see something festive, I only need to go a little inside the barangays to see the churches, the makeshift Stations of the Cross and the like. The same atmosphere can be found - at a grander scale I believe - in the provinces.

I will add more posts on how the Holy Week is observed in Manila in the next few days. Photo of Jesus entering Jerusalem is taken from this site.