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Friday, April 9, 2010

One Good Friday In Old Makati

I know, I know. Holy Week is over and done with and the city is back to its chaotic self. Sometimes, if only because nearly the entire Manila comes to a near grinding halt (READ: quiet), I wish that everyday is a Good Friday. When you are exposed to the speed and noise of urban life day in and day out, you will understand what I mean.

P. Burgos St., Brgy Poblacion. To the right are the constructed kubols.

I was in my place of residence during the entire Holy Week. I live in Barangay Poblacion, which is said to be the original Makati dating back to the Spanish times - the so-called Old Makati. For many years, people here still observe Lenten rites, a rather remarkable feat considering that Makati City has always been regarded as the seat of urbanity in the country.

In the Poblacion area, temporary shelters for the Stations of the Cross (called kubols) are constructed as early as Palm Sunday. These become centers of the Pasyon, which is the narration of the life and passion of Jesus Christ, delivered in a sing-song manner by residents designated or have volunteered to do it. The reading of the Pasyon in the area starts on Maundy Thursday, though outside Manila, it could start as early as Monday after Palm Sunday.

Kubol at Simba Likod

Kubol at Ilaya. Reading of The Pasyon was ongoing duing the time this photo was taken.

Good Friday marks the crucifixion and death of the Christ in the Christian World. Church altars are covered with purple cloth during this time. Below is a photo of the altar of the Saint Peter and Paul Parish Church located in Barangay Poblacion.

Come night time of Good Friday, a parade of floats representing the Stations of The Cross commences. This is a sight to behold, for the residents put their heart and soul in the construction of the floats and the arrangement of the statues. Roads are closed to onpassing vehicles during the duration of the parade.


The parade is mostly accompanied by devotees, most of them barefoot. Some prominent Makati folks also join in the parade, most notable of which is the Makati mayor, whom I always see walking with the crowd for the past five years of my abode in Makati.

I remember a long-time resident telling us once, beaming: We usually have 30 or so statues on parade for this occasion. The pride in the statement stems from something deeper though. It seems that for him, it is not just about elaborate and expensive preparations and such. The pride is all about the preservation and love of tradition. It is one infectious, "good" pride, so to speak.

Some things we would give for modernization, but there are some traditions that are worth keeping. The observance of the Holy Week in Old Makati is probably one of the things I would not hesitate to show to any non-Makati resident.